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Though the new metropolis is one of America's largest, many are unaware of Phoenix's rich and compelling history. Built on land once occupied by the most advanced pre-Columbian irrigation society, Phoenix overcame its hostile desert surroundings to become a thriving agricultural center. After World War II, its population exploded with the mid-century mass migration to the Sun Belt. In times of rapid expansion or decline, Phoenicians proved themselves to be adaptable and optimistic. Phoenix's past is an engaging and surprising story of audacity, vision, greed and a never-ending fight to secure its future. Chronicling the challenges of growth and change, fourth-generation Arizonan Jon Talton tells the story of the city that remains one of American civilization's great accomplishments.
A Legal History of Maricopa County
9780738548159
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The roots of Maricopa County's legal community reach as far back as the Spanish conquest of the New World. Since that time, soldiers, farmers, miners, adventurers, and others transformed this wild, lawless desert into a productive agricultural community, a tourist destination, and a center for commercial, financial, and political activity in the Southwest. The region's legal community--populated by diverse, distinguished, and sometimes infamous men and women--participated in every aspect of this development of Phoenix and the surrounding metropolitan area. The history of Maricopa County law, illustrated here in vintage photographs, reflects the social, political, economic, environmental, architectural, and cultural journey of what has become one of America's fastest growing and most populous counties.
Apache Junction and the Superstition Mountains
9780738530406
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In pioneer lore, the Lost Dutchman's Mine remains an intriguing mystery of the Old West. What became Apache Junction in the Salt River Valley was already an established home for prehistoric Native Americans and the Apache tribe, when it was further settled and cultivated by Spanish and Mexican expeditions, American wagon trains, mountain men, and the U.S. military in the late 19th century. But Apache Junction became legendary when German immigrant Jacob Waltz discovered a secret gold mine. Thousands of prospectors traversed the "crooked top" Superstition Mountains in search of this treasure, enriching the area's history and leading to the development of a unique community that has endured and grown alongside the famous legend.
Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum
9780738586717
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Since 1952, Bill Carr and Arthur Pack, the founders of the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, have inspired visitors to live in harmony with the natural world by fostering love, appreciation, and understanding of the Sonoran Desert. When the museum opened it had only four employees. Today it has more than 100 paid employees, nearly 200 docents, and close to 300 volunteers. About 85 percent of the museum is outside, where visitors can enjoy native and the endangered animals exhibited in award-winning naturalistic habitat enclosures, an innovation in exhibitory developed by the museum. Most visitors spend between two and three hours touring the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, but as the museum continues to grow, it is becoming harder and harder to see it all in such a short amount of time. Visitors should plan to come early and stay late!
Around Benson
9780738558929
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In 1880, the rowdy town of Benson was born when the Southern Pacific Railroad Company recognized a market for transporting mining and ranching products to growing enterprises in the southeastern Arizona Territory. Leading up to the town's incorporation in 1924, nearly all railroads in the Southwest led to Benson, which by that time boasted several hotels, liveries, taverns, churches, and a smelter. By the 1940s, U.S. Highway 80 and State Route 86 junction brought weary travelers to enjoy Benson's clean air, artesian water, and mountain vistas, creating the core of a multiethnic city whose progeny continue to keep the town alive today as the "Gateway to the Land of Cochise."
Around Dewey-Humboldt
9781467131124
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Nestled in the Arizona mountains are several small, unassuming towns that belie the importance of their heyday. These towns are all intrinsic to each other for one reason: mining. The nearby ranches were established to feed the miners, and in many cases, residents moved back and forth among them depending on which mines were prosperous or closed. Some no longer exist, evidenced now by rock walls or other harder-to-find clues. Some have turned into tourist attractions. The first legislative meetings of the Arizona Territory were held at the Woolsey Ranch in nearby Dewey, where the first building in Yavapai County was constructed. Indian wars occurred here, and many of the natural resources used to support the growing country came from iron and copper mines found deep within the bowels of the Dewey-Humboldt area. The towns of Cherry, Dewey, Humboldt, Mayer, Cordes Junction, Crown King, and Bumble Bee still exist. Others, like Agua Fria, Chaparral, Stoddard, McCabe, Poland, and Cleator, have mostly vanished, but their pioneering spirit and importance will never be forgotten.
Around Miami
9780738585123
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During the late 1800s, prospectors in search of gold, silver, and copper began to settle around the Pinal Mountains area in Miami. By 1918, several mining companies had established roots and contributed to the town's booming growth. The community established housing, schools, a hospital, and a town government, and the population grew to 5,000. Soon, Miami achieved recognition as one of the main mining towns in the state, along with neighboring Globe, Jerome, Morenci, Superior, Ajo, and Ray-Sonora. The new mining opportunities brought immigrants from around the world to settle in the area and eventually turned Arizona into a leading contributor to the copper industry. Although mining's hold on the local economy has changed over the years, today at least 20 percent of Miami-area employment is centered around copper mining, which remains close to the heart of the first hardy miners' descendants.
Around San Tan Mountain
9780738548951
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Within a few years of 1912--the year Arizona became the 48th state admitted to the Union--families began to settle on homesteads 30 miles southeast of Phoenix. These early settlers were primarily farmers of diverse heritage and faith. San Tan Mountain provided the backdrop for the arduous task of clearing cactus and thorny scrub brush from the desert. As irrigation water was pumped from drilled wells, crops took root on newly cultivated fields, and the communities of Rittenhouse, Higley, Combs, and Chandler Heights were established. Rittenhouse later became the town of Queen Creek. These communities were influenced--like many others across the Southwest--by war, the Depression, and immigration, all of which challenged and enriched the area.
Around Yavapai County
9780738579627
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On February 23, 1863, Pres. Abraham Lincoln signed the bill creating the Territory of Arizona. The first Arizona Territorial Legislature established the capital at Prescott and met in September 1864. They divided the territory into four counties: Mohave, Pima, Yavapai, and Yuma. Yavapai County, the "mother county," consisted of approximately 65,000 square miles and was believed to be the largest county in the United States. By the time Arizona attained statehood on February 14, 1912, there were 14 counties, and Yavapai County had been reduced in size to 8,125 square miles. Yavapai County has a rich history in mining, ranching, farming, military, and business. Today, Yavapai County is a thriving, growing county with nine incorporated cities and towns and numerous unincorporated communities, such as Ash Fork, Black Canyon City, Cornville, Mayer, and Skull Valley. Historic sites include Sharlot Hall Museum in Prescott, the town of Jerome, Fort Verde, Montezuma's Castle and Well, and Tuzigoot.
Ash Fork
9780738548326
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The tiny community of Ash Fork lies on the juniper-studded hills some 15 miles west of Bill Williams Mountain. Founded in 1882 when the Atlantic and Pacific Railroad was laying tracks for a transcontinental railroad, Ash Fork became an important rail junction by 1895 when another new line was built, this one south to Phoenix. The storied Route 66 opened in 1926 and U.S. Highway 89 not long after, making Ash Fork the most important link between Northern and Southern Arizona by both rail and highway. By the mid-20th century, however, rail routes changed and Interstate 40 opened a half-mile south of town, stopping overnight the flow of traffic through Ash Fork. While many residents were forced to leave, those who remained stubbornly refused to concede defeat. As the new century dawned, the citizens of Ash Fork had developed a new community spirit and hopes for a brighter future.
Avondale
9780738548432
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Founded in 1896 and originally known as Coldwater, the town of Avondale was settled along the banks of the Agua Fria River under the leadership of William "Billy" Graham Moore, a former blacksmith who supposedly ran with the Civil War's infamous Cantrell's Raiders. Moore operated a freight station on the west bank of the river, but after an argument with a postal inspector who proclaimed that homemade "hooch" was not to be sold in an enterprise that handled government mail, the post office was moved to the Avondale Ranch and took on the ranch's name as the Avondale Post Office. Since that time, Avondale has grown tremendously to become a thoroughly modern city, near the heart of the Phoenix metropolitan area.
Bisbee
9780738528946
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In the early 1900s, it was the largest city between St. Louis and San Francisco, bustling with the raw material of Wild West legends. Bisbee's infamous Brewery Gulch once supported 47 saloons and was considered the "liveliest spot between El Paso and San Francisco." By the 1970s, opportunists had relieved Bisbee's Mule Mountains of billions of pounds of copper, 102 million ounces of silver, 2.8 million ounces of gold, and millions of pounds of zinc, lead, and manganese. The ore reserves were depleted, and when the last pickaxe struck plain old dirt, a mass exodus of miners collapsed the real estate market. But the lure of cheap land was a magnet for retirees, hippies, and artists. Boarding houses were converted into charming bed and breakfasts. Antique stores, galleries, cafes, and restaurants replaced the saloons. These days, a vibrant and eclectic community of ranchers, politicians, and free spirits; a well-preserved architectural and historic heritage; and "the most perfect year-round climate" make Bisbee, the county seat, a one-of-a-kind gem.
Bowie
9780738585093
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Founded in 1880 along the Southern Pacific Railroad line, Bowie is located in northern Cochise County. It was originally named Teviston after Capt. James H. Tevis, operator of the Butterfield Overland Stage Station. Later, the town was named after nearby Fort Bowie, which was the scene of many battles with the Chiricahua Apaches. In 1886, the Apaches, including Geronimo and Cochise's son Naiche, were loaded on trains in Bowie and sent to Florida as prisoners of war. The Indian Wars in America were over. Bowie became a major shipping point for the military and the mines. A beautiful train station with a first-class hotel and dining room served the thousands of passengers traveling through. Great soil, pleasant climate, and artesian wells attracted homesteaders who grew every kind of fruit and vegetable imaginable. Ranchers in the nearby mountains shipped cattle by hundreds of carloads at a time. After US Highway 86 was completed, Bowie became a favorite stopping point for travelers. Pecans, pistachios, and wine from local vineyards attract visitors today.
Buckeye
9780738548890
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The town of Buckeye--located in the Valley of the Sun, just 35 miles west of Phoenix--was founded in 1888 following the completion of a 10mile irrigation canal in 1886. Throughout the 20th century, this farming community grew as residents established businesses, built churches, raised families, and worked together to carve a home out of the desert. The coming of the Arizona Eastern Railroad in 1910 was so significant that the town's business district was moved to accommodate the location of the railroad station. And as a result, Buckeye boomed. By 2005, with a population over 35,000, the town again faced significant change as the old cotton fields were replaced by housing developments. Though ever changing, the future remains bright for Buckeye, and its heritage remains a valuable treasure for residents, both old and new.
Bullhead City
9781467132466
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Bullhead City, situated on the east bank of the Colorado River in the Mojave Desert, is built upon the historical site of Hardyville, founded in 1864 by William H. Hardy. Hardyville was a frontier outpost that flourished for 19 years with a ferry service, trading post, and toll road that extended east to Prescott, Arizona. Gold and silver had been discovered in the mid-1800s, and commerce was thriving as steamboats transporting freight and passengers plied the river. By the 1920s, a series of dams was planned to harness the power of the Colorado River, but work on Davis Dam wasn't started until 1942 and was then delayed until after World War II. Bullhead City evolved after Davis Dam was completed in 1953. Many of the workers who built the dam stayed on, and in the 1960s, land developers promoting the river as a recreational destination made Bullhead a boomtown. Bullhead City was incorporated in 1984.
Camelback Mountain
9780738548401
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Camelback Mountain, a 2,704-foot peak that bears a remarkable resemblance to a kneeling camel, is one of Phoenix's most visible and cherished landmarks. From the city's earliest days, Camelback has been a magnet for promoters and developers, drawing Phoenix's most colorful characters to it either for profit or rest. But these modern dreamers were not the first to come under Camelback's spell. Many centuries ago, the earliest known inhabitants of the area made the mountain a sacred place. Today most hikers are unaware of the rich history that surrounds them as they explore the natural beauty of Camelback Mountain.
Casa Grande
9780738579535
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Casa Grande, Arizona, is located on desert and farmland between Tucson and Phoenix and began as the end of an unfinished railroad line--thus its early name, Terminus. On May 19, 1879, when early summer heat halted construction of the railroad in what would soon become Casa Grande, only three buildings and five residents constituted the town. The names reflect the ethnic diversity of the sparse population: Buckalew, Ochoa, Smith, Watzlavocki, and Fryer. In September 1880, executives of the Southern Pacific Railroad Company named the town Casa Grande after the prehistoric Hohokam Indian ruins located 20 miles to the east. This volume illustrates how a desert railroad stop grew into a city. Today, as Casa Grande's population increases, new neighborhoods, schools, malls, and entertainment venues provide exciting new reasons for living here. However, as the population grows, the town struggles to retain its identity as an agricultural community.
Cave Creek and Carefree
9781467130394
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The towns of Cave Creek and Carefree are nestled in the lush foothills of the Sonoran Desert 35 miles north of Phoenix. Theprehistoric Hohokam first inhabited the area, settling along Cave Creek and elsewhere above the washes. The settlement of Cave Creek dates to the 1870s and has a rich history of mining, ranching, and homesteading. Early settlers persevered in this beautiful but rugged environment, isolated from the conveniences of urban life. Carefree, in contrast, was a master-planned town built in the late 1950s, providing modern amenities and infrastructure. Both towns offer a dramatic landscape and profuse desert plant life. Visitors are drawn to the area for the abundant recreational activities, community festivals, and art fairs as well as a unique blend of Western and contemporary cultures. The two towns are committed to protecting the desert environment and the welcoming, small-town atmosphere that is their historical legacy.
Chandler
9780738585215
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Chandler is located 20 miles southeast of Phoenix and has been the home of innovative, forward-thinking people for many decades. As Phoenix began to grow in the late 19th century, a young veterinarian decided to aquire several acres of the surrounding land. Dr. Alexander J. Chandler took a few business gambles with his new acquisition, and the 18,000 acres known then as Chandler Ranch were soon split into lots and sold as the new town of Chandler. Once the town was established in 1912, Dr. Chandler relied on industrial agriculture and the new, lavish San Marcos Hotel to attract new residents. Later, Dr. Chandler brought Frank Lloyd Wright to redesign downtown and build a new hotel. During World War II, several families and businesses came to the area because of the new Williams Air Force Base. Following the war, high-tech businesses and bioscience firms created a new economy in Chandler, which led to a modern patchwork of people who represent Chandler today.
Clarkdale
9781467131391
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Clarkdale is recognized as a "Place of History" in the National Register of Historic Places, possessing both historical and architectural significance. Clarkdale's story began eons ago with the creation of its natural environment. The first people came thousands of years ago to this lush land, followed by subsequent cultures that made use of the abundant water, rich soil, and moderate climate. In the early 20th century, mining magnate William Clark built the smelter company town of Clarkdale; the agricultural age was soon replaced by the industrial age. Clark became one of the wealthiest men in America, with most of his money coming from the output of Clarkdale's smelter. Since the smelter closure in 1953, the former workers' homes, smelter site, and company lands have been recycled into today's homes, a tourist destination, and a place of museums, education, and the arts, all located within a spectacular environment of mountains and river. This book presents that story.
Coolidge
9781467133852
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Even by Arizona standards, Coolidge is a relatively "new" town. Its original site was platted in 1925 with a modest 80 acres purchased by Phoenix businessman Richard J. Jones, and it would be another 20 years before the town was incorporated. Nevertheless, the Coolidge environs possess a rich and colorful history going back several thousand years when the ancestral Sonoran people began building permanent structures and constructing canals to divert Gila River water for their crops. Two hundred years after the ancient civilization abandoned the area, Spanish explorers passed through on their way to California. But it was ultimately the establishment of main line rail service, the construction of a dam, and the building of the only north-south highway between Tucson and Phoenix that led to the formation of this town named after America's 30th president.
Cottonwood
9780738579993
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In the last quarter of the 19th century, a circle of 16 tall Cottonwood trees stood in the wash that extended to the Verde River just north of where the old jail building now stands. Cattlemen and ranchers from Oak Creek and the mountains made their overnight stops under these trees and the location became known as "The Cottonwoods." The lush riparian area attracted hardy settlers, and Fort Verde's military camp and the copper mines of Jerome provided a ready market for agricultural goods. Thus began the town that was soon to become the commercial hub for the Verde Valley. Today the incorporated city of Cottonwood serves an area population of over 55,000 and boasts a diverse economy based on health care, education, tourism, and the service and retail industries. With its moderate climate, beautiful setting, and small-town charm, combined with the amenities of a larger city, Cottonwood continues to attract steady growth and tourism.
Downtown Phoenix
9780738585239
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On a bed of a primordial ocean floor and in a valley surrounded by jagged mountains, a city was founded atop the ruins of a vanished civilization. In 1867, former Confederate soldier Jack Swilling saw the remains of an ancient canal system and the potential for the area to blossom into a thriving agricultural center. Pioneers moved into the settlement searching for new opportunities, and on October 20, 1870, residents living in adobe structures that lined dirt streets adopted the name Phoenix, expressing the optimism of the frontier. For decades, downtown Phoenix was a dense urban core, the hub of agricultural fields, mining settlements, and military posts. Unfortunately, suburban sprawl and other social factors of the post-World War II era led to the center's decline. With time, things changed, and now downtown Phoenix is uniquely positioned to rise again as a prominent 21st-century American city.
Early Bisbee
9781467133524
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Before Bisbee became a bustling mining camp, it was a haven to Native Americans for centuries. However, their presence brought the intrusion of army scouts and prospectors into the Mule Mountains. The coincidental discovery of vast mineral wealth at the future site of Bisbee permanently affixed the fate of the land forever. Rising from the remote desert was a dynamic mining city, a city that grew into one of the most influential communities in the West. Bisbee was unique in the Old West because of the mixed moral values. High society and the decadent underworld lived in a delicate balance, but a vibrant multicultural community was forged from these social fires.
Early Maricopa County
9780738574165
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In 1863, the first mining town, Wickenburg, was established in what would become Maricopa County, when it was created from parts of Pima, Yuma, Mohave, and Yavapai Counties on February 12, 1871. Spanish Franciscan missionary Francisco Garces claimed the name "Maricopa" came from the Pima word for the Pipatsje, a Yuman tribe from the Gulf of California that migrated to Arizona's central valley long ago. Ten years after Maricopa County was established, Jack Swillings's original settlement had begun its evolution into the ever-expanding city of Phoenix. By the turn of the 20th century, Maricopa County was no longer just a dusty settlement for a few hundred sturdy souls. Its rich agricultural districts had grown in scope and breadth, since its irrigation systems were fed by the Salt and Verde Rivers impounded in Roosevelt, Apache, and Canyon Lakes. Phoenix led the explosive growth of Maricopa County and Arizona, and by 1920 had become a dynamic, vibrant state capital. Today Maricopa County is the state's major economic engine and home to the fifth-largest city in America.
Early Phoenix
9780738548395
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Like the mythical bird it is named after, Phoenix rose from the desert heat to become a prosperous and vital city. Settled on the lands of the ancient Hohokam Indians, Phoenix began as an agricultural community in the 1860s. It was appointed county seat of Maricopa County in 1871 and territorial capital in 1889. By 1900, town boosters were calling Phoenix an "Oasis in the Desert" and the "Denver of the Southwest." By 1920, Phoenix was on its way to being a metropolitan city with a population of 29,053 and sporting an eight-story "skyscraper." Many farsighted individuals documented this development through photographs, allowing today's residents to see the community's amazing growth from small town to big city.
Early Tucson
9780738556468
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Tucson is a history of time and a river. The roots of prehistoric habitation run deep along the Santa Cruz River, reaching back thousands of years. Later the river attracted 17th-century Spanish explorers, who brought military government, the church, and colonists to establish the northern outpost of their New World empire. Later still, American westward expansion drew new settlers to the place called Tucson. Today Tucson is a bustling multicultural community of more than one million residents. These images from the photographic archives of the Arizona Historical Society tell the stories of individuals and cultures that transformed a 19th-century frontier village into a 20th-century desert city.
Early Yuma
9780738548579
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At the end of the 19th century, outlaws opined they would rather kill themselves than be taken alive to certain slow-boiled death in the caldron of Yuma's territorial prison, known nationally as "The Hell Hole." But to the pioneer residents of Yuma, the prison was the finest structure in town, sitting atop a breezy hill. When the prison was closed, Yuma's citizens used the abandoned structure as a school. That Yuma's residents lived happily where the West's most notorious outlaws feared to die is just one testament to the profound strength and perseverance of the first settlers of the community. This photographic history pays tribute to those men and women-Quechan, Spanish, Mexican, and Anglo-who looked past the arid landscape to envision a thriving river port, then a mining center, and finally, a verdant valley and winter playground.
Empire Ranch
9780738595948
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The Empire Ranch sits in the heart of the rolling grasslands and oak-studded foothills of Las Cienegas National Conservation Area in southeastern Arizona. Its remarkable history and the ranching way of life are told through the stories of the men, women, and children of the Empire, most notably the Vail, Boice, and Donaldson families. Walter L. Vail and Herbert R. Hislop purchased the Empire Ranch homestead for $2,000 in 1876. The Vail family operated the ranch until 1928, turning it into a cattle ranching empire. From 1928 to 1975, the well-respected Boice family ran a vibrant Hereford operation on the Empire. The Donaldson family used innovative range management methods to continue the ranching legacy from 1975 to 2009. Today, the ranch, under the management of the Bureau of Land Management, remains one of the oldest continuously working cattle ranches in the region.
Florence
9780738548999
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In 1866, Florence rose on the banks of the Gila River in south central Arizona. People came from near and far to this early settlement in the Arizona Territory, joining the Native Americans and Mexican farmers already established there. The town boomed with the discovery of a silver mine nearby. Politicians and lawyers followed when Florence became the seat of Pinal County in 1875, and when the Territorial Prison arrived in 1909, the community's future no longer depended upon the fickle mining business. World War II brought a prisoner-ofwar camp, and popular youth rodeos added to Florence's remarkable character and history. In the 1970s, citizens began a model effort to preserve their community's legacy and remaining historic structures. The major growth that early Florence anticipated is finally occurring all around the town, bringing change once again.
Gilbert
9781467132855
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Gilbert is one of the fastest growing communities in the country. There were only 500 residents when the town was incorporated in 1920. Since 1980, the population has doubled every five years. But how did this small desert community come to have such explosive growth in just over 30 years? Early pioneers began arriving in 1890, and in 1902, the Arizona Eastern Railway decided to build a rail line from Phoenix that went through Florence to the mining town of Kelvin. After purchasing land from Bobby Gilbert, a depot was built in 1905, and the town began to grow. Because of the creation of canals and Roosevelt Dam, Gilbert became a thriving agricultural community. In 1971, Gilbert had less than 2,000 residents, and in 1975, the town council approved a land annexation that added over 53 square miles to Gilbert. In 2014, that population number approached 250,000. By 2040, Gilbert is expected to be the fourth largest community in Arizona with approximately 330,000 residents.
Glen Canyon Dam
9780738528755
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Constructed between 1956 and 1966 by the United States Bureau of Reclamation, Glen Canyon Dam on the Colorado River was a project of immense proportions. Even before the non-stop pouring of 5 million yards of concrete began, much work had to be accomplished. The town of Page, Arizona was established on a windswept mesa to house workers and their families, and the 1,028-foot Glen Canyon Bridge was built to carry men, materials, and equipment to the dam site. Though the dam has proven a controversial structure throughout its history, the massive undertaking of its construction was an undeniable triumph of ingenuity and determination.
Glendale
9780738548661
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Established in 1892, nine miles northwest of Phoenix in the Salt River Valley of Arizona, Glendale at first attracted farmers with strong Protestant religious convictions. Soon, however, others began to settle in the town and on the rich farmlands of the area. Although predominantly Anglos, the settlers that came in the latter 1890s and early decades of the 1900s included various ethnic minorities. Each group had a significant role in the city's development into an important agricultural center that shipped produce all over the country. World War II and its influx of servicemen to train at Glendale's Luke and Thunderbird airfields brought permanent changes to Glendale. The population doubled and doubled again and again. Today the city-Arizona's fourth largest-is a metropolitan area of 59 square miles and close to 250,000 people. This volume offers windows to understanding the growth and development of Glendale over the years.
Globe
9780738548333
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According to Arizona folklore, "Globe City" was named for an extremely large globe-shaped silver nugget found along Pinal Creek in the 1870s. The town site, nestled in the foothills of the Pinal Mountains, was laid out in 1876, and miners and prospectors soon flooded the camp, joining ranchers already in the area. In 1881, Globe was named the county seat of Gila County, allowing for the continued growth and development of mining, ranching, and commerce. Many Arizonans who helped shepherd the Territory of Arizona into statehood came from Globe, including the state's first governor, businessmen George W. P. Hunt. Today Globe is a thriving community of 7,500 residents who take pride in their town's unique historic legacy.
Grand Canyon's Phantom Ranch
9780738585253
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Phantom Ranch is nestled in the Grand Canyon basin on the Colorado River--a location hardly visible from the rim and only accessible after a journey through scores of geologic layers. The only way there is by river rafting, hiking, or mule, and with each foot of the journey, the traveler descends 30,000 years in geologic time. While at Phantom Ranch, the view looking above is of 1.7 billion years of geology, all swirling together in an alphabet of colors. Grand Canyon's Phantom Ranch is the story of the rustic buildings designed by architect Mary Jane Colter in 1921, of the park's first peoples, river rafters, the early trail and bridge builders, and dramatic flash floods. When travelers leave Phantom Ranch, they are never the same. For some of them, departing is as if they have just said good-bye to an old friend.